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Thursday, November 6, 2014

Air-O-Diesel

 Sparky from the same company some weeks earlier!
 its small diesel brother 
 Drone Diesel

 a bench run of my Air-o-diesel.

my Air-O-diesel

Published on 2 Nov 2014 Welcome back for a this time no rebuild story, but just a bench run of my Air-o-diesel. The engine is in need of a good overhaul, but yet still in a decent condition for a good run. Last time, 2 months ago I tryed to start the engine, and it was next to impossible to make it run....The compression was so bad, it wouldn't run. After my arm almost fell off, I stopped flipping I decided not too push it...well not until today. I add some extra 15 w 40 engine oil to my standard fuel mix and maybe that will do the trick. So as you see, now it starts pretty easily. Like I wrote in the clip, the USA never got the diesel wave, that got us here in Europe, but still they have made some very good diesel engines, or I should say, compression ignition engines. I have also some small McCoy diesels, and those are really great runners. They are a match, anytime, for a Webra Taifun, or a ED Bee to name a just a few. The fits and finish of the USA model engines are also very good in my opinion...only the one little notorious demon...the Deezil is the exception and it cast a dark shadow over the US model diesel engine community in those early days....Its a real shame, as the concept of the Deezil was not that bad at all. It outran even the E.D Competition Special by a small margin for maximum rpm. This little Air-O-Diesel engine I found on eBay along with its big brother the Sparky from the same company some weeks earlier! It was really cheap, still mounted in a old control line plane! On the battery was a decal...noting the year 1949. The Spark version fired up after the 3rd flick of the prop!...Just like its small diesel brother, a great engine to have and will still have enough life in it to power a plane! It will now in need of a new crankshaft bush, a new piston and bushings for the rod too, on both sides. But its still in decent condition for its age, as you can see from the clip. I hope you enjoy it too. Many thanks for the interest.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

YAMADA YS 60 FR







YAMADA YS Model 60 R / C
Yamada manufacturer Manufacturing Co. Ltd., Japan
Distributed by Yamada Manufacturing Co. Ltd., Japan
Series / Num. Serie s / n
Year of manufacture 1973
9.95 Displacement D.C. (0,613 cu. In.)
Bore 24 mm. (0.949 in.)
Stroke 22 mm. (0.866 in.)
Glow Class
times 2
Adjustable type carburetor (with speed control)
Rotary valve intake front (crankshaft)
Inner bearing
Outer bearing
If crankcase crankshaft on
No crankshaft on bronze
Methanol Fuel / Oil
Used in Box
Comments Primer engine manufactured by this firm, designed exclusively for racing. It became a favorite choice in pattern flying. Provides the beginning of the pressurization of the fuel tank and a flow regulator to supply a large diameter carburetor. Steel jacket, with deflector piston and ring, on two bearings and crankshaft carburetor with flow regulator. Rear exhaust can be fitted with manifold pipe and tuned exhaust.Because of the delicate membrane after run oil cannot be used with this engine without serious damage.
This engine has a higher compression ratio than most model engines and consequently is very hard on glow plugs under hard running it will finish a plug in a couple of flights. I have even witnessed something that I have never seen in all my 50 years running model engines. I have landed an XLT pattern plane on at least two occasions dead-stick with the engine and propeller turning over. Once where the plug was completely missing and another occasion where the center was blown completely out leaving an open hole.




Watch it Fly in a Spitfire RC Model Airplane

Monday, July 28, 2014

WEBRA SPEED 61 RV








Technical data:

Model WEBRA SPEED 61 RV
Manufacturer Webra Modellmotoren, Enzesfeld, Österreich
Distributed by Webra Modellbau GmbH., Weidemberg, D
Series / Issue Series s / n
Year of manufacture 1980
9.95 Displacement D.C. (0,613 cu. In.).
Bore 24 mm. (0.945 in.).
Stroke 22 mm. (0.866-in.)
Glow Class
Cycle 2
Adjustable type carburetor (with speed control)
Rear rotary valve intake
Methanol Fuel / Oil
New Condition
Version 61 Comments RV. Steel case and aluminum piston with a ring. The crankshaft is mounted on two ball bearings, adjustable carburetor air flow speed large diameter regulation by varying fuel servo.

ENYA 60 III BB TV # 7033








Technical data:

ENYA 60 Model III BB TV # 7033
Enya manufacturer Metal Products Co. Ltd., Japan
Distributed by Enya Metal Products Co. Ltd., Japan
Series / Issue Series s / n
Year of manufacture
9.95 Displacement D.C. (0,606 cu. In.).
Bore 24 mm. (0.944 in.).
Stroke 22 mm. (0.865-in.)
Glow Class
Cycle 2
Adjustable type carburetor (with speed control)
Front rotary intake valve (crankshaft)
Methanol Fuel / Oil
Condition New in Box
Comments engine very careful construction. It is an evolution of the Model 60 II (7032) with improved transfer admission. The piston with two rings and flow deflector, crankshaft on ball bearings. Engine purchased in the United States.

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Fox 60 Eagle I RC







Specifications:
Motor FOX EAGLE-1 Series 2 60 R / C (1973)

Technical data:

Model FOX EAGLE 60 I
Fox Manufacturing Co. Manufacturer., Fort Smith, Ark., USA
Distributed by Fox Manufacturing Co.., Fort Smith, Ark., USA
Series / Num. Serie s / n
Year of manufacture 1974
Displacement 0.605 cu. in. (9.91 c.c.)
0.906 in diameter. (29/32 in.) (23.02 mm.)
Carrera in .937. (15/16 in.) (23.81 mm.)
Class Ignition Glow
2 Cycle
Type carburetor adjustable (with speed adjustment)
Admission delantera rotary valve (crankshaft)
If bearing interior
If bearing outer
If the crankshaft on the crankcase
The crankshaft on bronze
Methanol Fuel / Oil
Condition New in Box with paperwork
Google Translate for Business:Translator ToolkitWebsite TranslatorGloba

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Foster 99 Ignition Engine







The Forster 99 ignition engine first appeared on the market in 1936 and was sold through the 1950's. Many features of the day included two speed timer to allow a low/high speed by retarding the spark timing, ball bearing crankshaft, and bronze bushed connecting rod. This well known favorite of many modelers produces .68 horsepower and swings a 14 to 16 inch propeller with ease.

Motor FORSTER 99 M & G Speed ​​2

Technical data :

Model FORSTER 99
Series / Serial Numbers s / n
Year of manufacture 1955
Displacement 0,997 cu. in. (16.33 d.c.)
Bore 1.062 in diameter. (1 1/16 in. 'S 26,975 mm.)
Stroke in 1,125. (1 1/8 in. 'S 28,575 mm.)
Spark ignition type
Cycle 2 times
Fixed Type carburetor (no regulation of speed)
Admission Sub-piston (port side)
If bearing Inner
Outer Bearing In
The crankshaft on the crankcase
If ERMEC on Crankshaft
Fuel Gas / (optional: Methanol )
Condition good used
Beam mounted Motor without plastic fuel tank. Spark plug 3/8 x 32. Piston with the rings. Timer a set of double platinum points, So that "b" or "a" timer can be chosen for low speed or high speed running (equivalent to continual motor control).
Engine operating tips

Ignition Set-up
Shown above is the RC activated switch for selecting high or low speed timers  

The first thing I noticed when attempting to mount this big engine to the workbench was, because of the extra large diameter of the crankcase some sort of special mounting setup would be required. The workbench was a top consisting of a single piece of 2 inch thick Canadian Ceder measuring 2 feet by six feet in length so there was no real danger of the table top taking to flight during the test run. Our first attempt of attaching the Forster 99 involved using a two foot length of 2 X 4; notched to accommodate the crankcase and the mounting lugs secured to the 2 X 4 by 4 - 3/16 X 1.5 inch wood screws and the whole mount assembly screwed to the table top by 4 - 5 inch long number 10 deck screws.  
The plan was to make the first few runs on this new to me engine using nitro fuel and glow plug ignition. After a healthy priming of the cylinder the glow driver was attached we stood to one side and gave the 17 X 8 inch prop a smart flip with an oak chicken stick. The engine fired up immediately, gathered speed and promptly departed the test stand trailing the length of fuel tubing.
After the initial shock subsided I set off to track down the resting place of the big Forster. The first clue that we were on the right track was the short length of brightly colored fuel tubing lying in the undergrowth 25 feet from the bench. I took this as an encouraging sign because finding objects in the woods can be a problem and at the best take a long search. Another 15 feet into the bushes we spotted her with mounting screws still attached: luckily the fuel tank was left on the bench otherwise she now would be lying in the next county.
The experience gave me cause to rethink the mounting setup and to conduct my activities from the opposite side of the bench: well out of harms way and out of range of that mighty spinning prop.
At this point I haven't been able to manage a full ignition run. The timer I selected to wire for the attempts appears to be the high speed one. I know this because the only firings were a few of those propeller throwing bangs that result from early ignition (well before top dead center). Tests with a multi-meter confirmed that the timer chosen is the one where the points first close in the cycle.
Now that I am almost certain which of the timer terminals is for the slow speed running (retarded setting; the plan is to select it for starting and have a double pole switch for selecting the high speed timer after starting and adjusting the fuel mixture. The timing adjustment arm is so close to the propeller arc that any running adjustments are just far too dangerous.
    



After several exciting runs of this engine using glow ignition and nitro fuel its time to move on and attempt running on full ignition and eventually; full ignition gasoline and speed tests with that two stage timer, but first we have to be able to identify which is the retarded timer for start-up.



Since we were not successful in making the old girl run on full ignition because the points could or would conduct the required current amperage I am thinking that its time to find a power transistor and make up a circuit to trigger the coil with a low current signal from the points.

The transistor type above is PNP (current flowing from Emitter to Base)

All the items needed to complete the above ignition system can be obtained from Larry Davidson, 66 Casa Mia Circle, Moneta, Va. 24121 (540)721-4563. His email is samchamp@jetbroadband.com Click Here to view his complete catalog of products. Larry has the complete solid state ignition unit, the high tension leads, spark plugs, and the coils. The complete system runs about $75.00 less shipping. Tell him Scott from Model Flight sent you.
This circuit is the circuit Bill Schmidt designed in the early 1980's. It is a time proven and reliable ignition system.
Use TIP42, 2N-5195, or SK series (SK-3083, SK-3189, or SK-3961) transistors.
Make sure you use the 10K ohm resistor at the spark plug on radio control ignition models or excessive radio interference will result.
The limiting resistor from the base of the transistor to the points should be between 18 and 22 ohms, or the trigger current can be excessive causing burning of the points. (This electronic ignition reduces deterioration of the points greatly compared to the old points-condenser circuit.)
Use a new strong coil as some other older coils don't work well in a transistor driven circuit.
Use 16 gauge wire or bigger from the battery to the coil or excessive voltage drop will reduce spark effectiveness.
You can use 3 nicads, 3 nickel metal hydroxides or 2 dry cell batteries for the battery source. Make sure you have between 3.0 and 4.0 volts at all times.
An external boosting battery source can be used to give a hotter starting spark, but is usually only needed when using dry cells. Parallel the booster battery across the model battery using a plug and jack.
The kill switch can be activated by timer or servo depending on the application.




I purchased a bag of 5, 2SK2850 K2850 transistors on eBay for five dollars and now I am ready to build a electronic ignition circuit for the Forster 99 armed with a few facts* about power transistors.

After a successful running session of this old brute using nitro fuel and glow ignition I thought it may be interesting to try a run on full ignition. I experimented for some time to identify the three leads of the tansistor, even made a few guesses and wired a transistor into the circuit taking care to chose a new one each time, to eliminate the possibility that last trial had somehow damaged it. I had no luck with this process and after I thought about it for a while I realized that there were factorial 3 possibilities (3X2X1=6), I gave up and decided to try a run without it.

Here is a video of the results of this attempt.
  


*
SOME PRELIMINARY FACTS: 
There are no "fixed" pinouts for the leads of some transistors. But in general there is a "common" pinout for each style of case. Most technical data sheets include a pinout diagram but if the transistor is unmarked or
unknown, what do you do?
Simply follow our 3-step approach:

Firstly, the transistors we are talking about are "ordinary" transistors.
The technical name is Bipolar Junction Transistor  (BJT) (other types of transistors are: Field Effect Transistors, Uni-Junction Transistors,
and others).
"Ordinary" transistors have three leads:

COLLECTOR
BASE
 and
EMITTER
and come in many different styles and cases.
Here are a few of the packages, including surface mount:
Note: A small "plastic" case (such as TO-92) generally means the transistor is a low current (called "small signal") device.
A flat pack, such as TO-126 and TO-220, indicates the transistor is a medium current device and
a "high-hat" or metal can device, such as TO-3 and TO-66, (TO-66 is a small version of TO-3) indicates the transistor is a high current device.
Each style has a case-number called a "JEDEC number" as shown above (TO-3 etc) but this is not the important topic. We are interested in finding  the COLLECTOR, BASE and EMITTER leads.

All PNP transistors have the same circuit symbol:
 
PNP symbol
This symbol does not indicate if the transistor is small-signal, high power or the type of package. It just indicates the transistor is PNP. Note the arrow on the emitter is pointing to the base. This is how to remember the symbol. I have shown it this way as the emitter of a PNP normally goes to the positive rail and this is how it will appear in a circuit. 
All NPN transistors have the following symbol:

NPN symbol

The arrow on the emitter points away from the base.
NPN transistors are the most popular type. In the early days of manufacture, it was easier to make NPN transistors. The voltage and current capability could be made higher. This made them cheaper and most circuits were designed around NPN types. 

Monday, March 10, 2014

Webra Winner 2.5 cc




Model

WEBRA WINNER II
ManufacturerWebra-Fein-Modelltechnik, Berlin, Germany
Distributed byWebra-Fein-Modelltechnik, Berlin, Germany
Series / Series Issues / n
Year of manufacture1974
Displacement2.46 cc (0.150 cu.-In.)
Diameter14 mm. (0.551 in.).
Career16 mm. (0.630-in.)
Power ClassDiesel
Time2
Type of carburetorFixed (no speed control)
AdmissionRotary valve front (crankshaft)
Inner bearingNot
Bearing outerNot
Crankshaft on crankcaseIf
Crankshaft on bronzeNot
FuelEther / Petroleum / Oil
ConditionNew
CommentsRange of Webra sport. Motor without ball bearings, sleeve steel radial piston transfer and mehanita. Motor designed for the general public, uncomplicated and easy operation.Maintains a strong resemblance to the Webra Record last generation.

Published on 2 Mar 2014
In this episode you can see how this lovely old school long-stroke runs.The engine is actually as old as I am and was offered to me for rebuilding. Due to the lose of the original piston, connecting rod and wrist-pin the rebuild was a bit more difficult than it normally would be, to make this old beauty into a runner again. I used for a pattern a piston from another engine and a simple dummy connecting rod made up from sheet aluminium to get the right distances correct specially the eye to eye dimension from big end to small. I got the needed sizes pretty well and very close to what it should be. The run-in the clip is the 4th run after the rebuild and the engine is still a bit tight at top dead center, so more runs are needed to get the right fit for the new piston and liner combination.. The engine starts very easily, as is expected of a long-stroke, but all Webras have these nice properties.The Webra engines were always very well made and were known for the superb internal fits and finishes. All of these factors resulted in them also being superb starters.
The bore in the crankshaft for induction is pretty small, so the engine could be easy tuned a bit for extra performance by simply opening up the bore. The again this engine was never build for fast rpm, but more as a solid sports motor that can swing larger propellers..Running it with a 7 x 6 is not recommended by the makers. .A 8 x 6 will be good for combat, as long you don't run it over the max. rpm. The 10 x 4 old wooden prop moved a lot air and the engine is not run in yet.
I miss having the Komet and Winner in my collection......so maybe one day I will get lucky and make this lovely "Webra Family" of mine complete.


 Dummy Connecting rod used to establish required dimensions and engine timing

 Making the new piston





 All new parts ready for assembly




 visual check to confirm that the arrangement is true for correct engine operation
 Still missing its spinner but ready for operation
 Mounted in the test stand with a wooden 10 x 4 Top-Flite propeller mounted 

Clip of the fourth run after the rebuild